One handed spear build.

John

John

Artisan
Hello. Its me again. Is there an area min/max for the head of a one handed spear?
 
The minimum is "noticeably thicker than the pipe insulation." There is no maximum, but the spear still has to visibly and unmistakably be a spear ("shaped appropriate to the weapon type"), and it is still subject to a maximum overall length.

So, you could probably get away with a trident shape, for example, but an enormous spade would probably look too much like an axe to pass my personal weapon inspection.
 
Come to think of it, a trident would be awesome.
 
I've thought about building a trident. Would you have to have a core for each prong?
 
I would be extremely wary of a trident design (or any design, really) that has any additions to the core for the extra prongs. I'm not sure the best way to do this, but you'd want to make the junction between the three prongs as strong as possible without adding anything to the core. In building a trident, I'd also think it would be a good idea to make sure the prongs are close enough together that you can't get a weapon caught between them - the combat rules specifically restrict weapons with the potential to trap other weapons.
 
I would recommend the area between the prongs be filled with a neutral colored latex. It won't look quite as nifty, but will prevent the trapping problem and provide support where coreless additional prongs would be prone to being ripped off in battle.
 
I have thought of making Sai, without being able to trap a sword, which lends to trident building. I would recommend not adding any core as that leads to being able to break the core off and now you have to tear down the whole weapon to repair it. To make it safe and coreless, you can have open spaces but bring the points back until they are either touching or nearly touching (touching is safer as you just make it one piece of foam). Its not as cool as having a 3 prong trident but it will have most of the look but be safe enough for combat.
 
The main issue with a trident is that unless you're using latex, all that construction has to be open-cell foam, and it's going to come off within a game or two because that stuff just isn't sufficiently structural. If you are using latex, then you're probably not making a spear, as last I recall latex weapons aren't allowed to thrust without a trusting tip... which puts you right back at step one.
 
The entire head does not have to be constructed of open cell foam (the weapon construction update in the newest version of the rulebook allows a lot more leeway in constructing weapon heads), but since it's a spear you'd probably want at least the last 2.5" to be made of open cell. I have seen latex/plastidip weapons with thrust tips, but I have yet to see a spear made that way. If someone does actually make a trident (as either a polearm or a spear) I'd love to see a picture.
 
I made a hammer (entire head open cell except the core that was surrounded by closed cell) that was latex that cleared. It looked very good but I dont have a picture. Its doable to do an entire head of open cell, as long as there is closed cell foam around the core and like Kyle said, do 2.5" of open cell over the end to allow for thrusting. Now I want to make a trident...
 
It's a spade bit looks more like a large flint head. It may be for a friends Orc. It is only slightly longer then a max OHE. He wanted a Spartan type thing with a Spear and shield.
 
Just an offhand note, make sure to also give him a shortsword or something. Spear and shield almost works, but not really well given the limitations of our combat system. Since a single hit doesn't really have consequences, it is a simple matter for an opponent to simply take one hit to get inside the spear's range and then circle to the shield side where the spear/shield fighter can't really strike due to the unwieldieness of his weapon. Especially the two shortsword claws type of enemies that are pretty much a game standard.

In my experience spear is a much better blocking weapon than one-handed attacking weapon. Spear and shortsword, with the spear held vertically tip down for foot/leg shots against inattentive opponents and blocking, is much more workable, as is pretty much any onehanded weapon and shield. Solo spear is pretty great as well, as using two hands on it lets you easily control the tip, apply leverage, and quickly change targets.

Get him to try it in practice before going to game. Nothing more frustrating than a weapon system that you think is going to work out and turns out not to.
 
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I dunno if he will actually come but he brought weapon material over so I took the little bit of time and threw it together. i plan on getting him over to some sparring to see if it will even work for him before the start of next season.
 
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Still a work in progress. Not a trident but thought I would post it incase anyone was interested.
 
The secret to making a trident is not to focus on making all the prongs stabbable - i.e. reaching your opponent to stab them. Just do the center like a very minimal spear. have the 2.5" depth of foam on the end of the core/shaft of the weapon.

Then out of open cell foam, carve the outer prongs, mount them so that they are actually touching the center shaft's open cell foam piece about a third up from the shaft. Imagine the above artwork of the trident but bend the outer points inward to just touch the center point and then have the space in between them an inch or less. Now you've got something that is spear like/trident like looking, cannot entrap another weapon and is fun to do all sorts of stabby stabby with.
 
You can easily make it three distinct and separate prongs (albeit without a gap wide enough to catch a weapon) by building it in a three layer style, and sandwiching layers of fiber sheet (Kevlar being the best option) between the foam layers to prevent the prongs from ripping off.
 
It'd still be very much a marshal's call to allow it, though. A flexible prong with an opening is still going to have a possibility of weapon trapping.

John, how does that spear balance? I'd think a head that big out of what looks like the heavier couch foam would be significantly tip-heavy and unwieldy compared to a smaller head of the lighter green open-cell.
 
Muir. True on the Marshall call.

As far as weight goes, I'd recommend weighting the weapon to reduce or eliminate balance issues. I usually use solid lead fishing weight wire glued into the core to make weapon balance as close to perfect as possible.
 
Good balance on a weapon makes a huge difference.
 
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