So I want to build a latex weapon

I'm having trouble finding a web site that sells the super good liquid latex, black dye and the sealer. I would really like to buy it all from one site just so I'll know the chemicals are compatible, or otherwise, at least have someone to complain to when my hands melt off.

Any recommendations?
 
Deadlands said:
I'm having trouble finding a web site that sells the super good liquid latex, black dye and the sealer. I would really like to buy it all from one site just so I'll know the chemicals are compatible, or otherwise, at least have someone to complain to when my hands melt off.

Any recommendations?

Probably have to buy it by the gallon... :roll:
 
One suggestion is to use nothing but Plasti Dip (also known as tool dip). It is a chemically engineered rubber coating and therefore doesn't affect latex allergies. You can get colors that are pre made or you can buy a clear version and then add dyes to it (that usually comes with the clear version). Most people I know will use black as the base coats, then paint the weapon then seal it with the clear coating over top of it. My suggestion would be for 3-4 layers of the black (until you can't see the foam underneath the coloring) then two coats of the clear. And since you're only using one product for everything, it is easy to buy it all at once. If you can't find it, eBay it baby! You will want to use this in a ventilated garage or outside as the vapors are quite obnoxious.

Now, if you want latex, I would suggest Douglas and Sturgess in San Francisco, CA. They have something called "mask latex" which is a thicker version than the latex you get at makeup shops. It comes in quarts, gallon and 5 gallon pails. This stuff is great for casting in plaster molds as well as application with a brush - taking only about 4 coats to do a proper covering. Note that you'll probably need a new brush every 4 coats or so if you clean it well in between. It isn't as obnoxious as the plasti-dip however it does use ammonia as a base to keep it from drying out so if you put your head near, over or directly into the bucket, you'll get a blast of the ammonia. You can use any acrylic/water based paint to color it. I usually use 2 ounces of paint per gallon although you will want to test it out first for color since the latex comes 'white' which actually dries that yellowish color most prosthectics come in. Do realize that the latex will dry a darker color than what it looks like so, again, test it out. Best way to do that is to have a piece of plaster that you can dab the latex onto. This will help dry the latex quickly.

You can use the clear Plasti-dip over the latex afterwards but I usually just paint the whole thing with acrylic paints to cover the latex. Yes, the paint does wear off eventually but usually it is a quick fix. You can also color the latex to keep the color. For instance, I make all my weapons coated with black latex however when it comes to the wooden shafts, I mix up a batch of brown latex, usually with a bit more paint in it to make it more opaque. I then use a 'dirty' brush (one with a lot of latex clots on it) to brush it on. This results in the wood grain effect with the black bleeding through or being revealed partially in the strokes due to the clotting of the brush. Or you can use a clean brush and run a comb through the wet, brown latex but you have to be quick and decisive. Futzing over it will result in peeling away semi-dried clumps of latex.

Hope all of that helps!

Oh, on a designer note - whenever I latex pipe foam, I always strap it first with duct tape, leave it for the night then pull off the tape in the morning. This removes the protective coat that the foam has and helps the latex bond better to it.
 
Every source so far seems to be recommending acrylic paint, but no one seems to know why that is the stuff that is commonly used. Any ideas on where to get the paint? Miniatures paint only comes in really small quantities, naturally.

I've used plasti-dip in grip and hilts, but never on blades. It seemed a little too hard, but I honestly have no clue.
 
Deadlands said:
Every source so far seems to be recommending acrylic paint, but no one seems to know why that is the stuff that is commonly used. Any ideas on where to get the paint? Miniatures paint only comes in really small quantities, naturally.

I've used plasti-dip in grip and hilts, but never on blades. It seemed a little too hard, but I honestly have no clue.

When I have made latex weapons, I've used artist acrylics and they mix just fine with the latex I use (a 5-gallon bucket of the mask latex Mark recommends above). They come in pretty sizable tubes at your local craft store.
 
Deadlands said:
Every source so far seems to be recommending acrylic paint, but no one seems to know why that is the stuff that is commonly used. Any ideas on where to get the paint? Miniatures paint only comes in really small quantities, naturally.

I've used plasti-dip in grip and hilts, but never on blades. It seemed a little too hard, but I honestly have no clue.


Garry, let me know how well you cut the foam at an angle. I can't cut in s straight line to save my life and I live in a small apartment. I took a break from trying to cut it but I will be going back shortly.
 
Yeah, I think my first attempt will be a typical boffer pipe that comes to slanted point, kinda like a ninja sword. I have no clue how I'm going to cut an actual blade, but I'll let you know if I come up with something.
 
What works best for gluing them together? Contact cement?
 
Yes, contact cement is the best. The main thing is to let the two sides dry well before putting them together. Many people get over-anxious and put them together before the glue properly cures and that causes some separation issues a year or so later.

As for cutting the foam, that is a problem without the proper tools. One thing I had seen used was a square cement trowel that had one edge sharpened. It allowed for a longer stroke/cut. Of course, you'd need to sharpen it and, IMO, if you have the equipment to do that (belt sander or grinding wheel) you can use those on the blade itself. Also, some foam sands better than others so you may want to see if that works. In addition, I have used a sure form in the past to some good effect. Like a cheese grater, it removes and shapes the foam pretty well but depending upon the foam, you can have quite a bumpy/feathered surface left behind. Sometimes it is low enough though so that the layers of latex will hide it.
 
jpariury said:
Three-layer camp foam pad, sculpted with a dremel is the common method I've seen.


I never thought of a dremel...good idea. I've seen the square cement trowel that had one edge sharpened, but alas I don't think I can sharpen them.
 
Large quantities of acrylic paint could likely be found at Michael's. Once you have a list of stuff you'll need, please send me the list. I'll buy up a good amount of it to give you. I'm not great at crafting the weapons, but I'm more than willing to gather supplies for you.
 
Update:

I made a boffer latex using plasti-dip and was pleasantly surprised. Not too heavy or hard.

I saw a guy online talking about making molds that you can then inject foam into, thus surrounding the core with the already shaped weapon?

Does anyone have any clue as to where I can find this magcal and wonderous injectable foam? I heard that it might be a silicone.

Gary
 
I'm not sure what others use for the injection process but Douglas and Sturgess has a 2 part flex foam (you'd want around 6 pound) that after you mix it, it bubbles up and turns into flexible foam. I've never made a combat weapon with an injection process because I don't have the storage to put a mold and I never really learned the process of keeping the core in the center while the foam filled up around it. You'd also want to use a silicone or other non-pourous mold material.

What I do do is make a latex mold of throwing weapons, pour the skin of the latex inside the mold, wait for it to dry and then pour the expanding mold inside of that. That's how I get really good detail on the latex thrown weapons. Current project is making a full sized hatchet. :)
 
Thanks very much for the input.

If anyone on the east coast has done this, or feels like teaming up to try it sometime this year, please email me. Alliancedeadlandnh@gmail.com.
 
I don't know if you were using the paint on plasti-dip or not but there are two things you can do if it ever feels too thick or too hard. You can thin the plasti-dip (paint on kind) with xylene or naptha. Keep in mind both these chemicals are hazardous (as all paint thinners tend to be) and should be disposed of properly. Another solution is to buy the spray on plasti-dip. 1-2 cans is usually sufficient for most one handed weapons, at least that I've seen. This site http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/plastidip.html has the best price that I've found online, or some Home Depots carry it. The site has a variety of colors, Home Depot usually only carries black.

What I usually do is buy black and spray the blade (or whatever you want to paint) then paint over it with acrylics. I've found the acrylics at Michael's work fine for this. Then you have the option of spraying a clear coat over top of it to seal your work. While you're at Michaels, something I've found that works nicely for ornate work are the thin foam sheets (8.5"x11"). You can cut them out in nearly any shape and treat them with plasti-dip the same way you did the rest of the sword. I usually use a thinned down version of the paint on kind for this. Here's a pic of the cross guard I did for my biata:

IMG_0143.jpg


As far as why acrylics are preferred probably has to do with the plastic in the paint. It probably lends itself better to blending with latex than oil based paints. It's also more flexible and cracks less in my experience than other pants. Hope this has been semi-helpful, feel free to pm me or shoot me an e-mail (christine.maudlin@gmail.com) if you have any questions or if I sucked at explaining anything :)
 
An odd question.. though they are called 'Latex Dip' weapons, I've heard in this post and elsewhere people using other materials.

Has anyone tried Silicone?

I used to buy caulking tubes of pre-colored 100% silicone at a hardware store. you can apply it with spreaders etc, and if you use a wet finger, you can smooth it easily. I've heard there are ways to thin it with water into a brushable thin coating as well. I know Silicone is far better for latex alergies, and also deals extremly well with hot and cold to avoid cracking or weeping, but wonder if others had experience on using it for weapons.
 
Every source so far seems to be recommending acrylic paint, but no one seems to know why that is the stuff that is commonly used. Any ideas on where to get the paint? Miniatures paint only comes in really small quantities, naturally.

I've used plasti-dip in grip and hilts, but never on blades. It seemed a little too hard, but I honestly have no clue.
Acrylic paint is easy, forgiving, cheap, and bonds well with almost anything. It is essentially plastic in paint form. It also won't degrade foam and delicate building component the way spray paint or a chemical based paint would. As far as suppliers, Michael's and Joanne's both should carry it, as well as any art supply store (Blick, Pearle, Utrecht, etc...). Prices will vary depending on where you but, but you can usually get mid-sized tubes at the legit art supply store for a good price, then get smaller bottles for detailing and all the fancy bits.
 
As stated above, you can use benzene products (like xylene) and naptha to either thin, carve, or even etch plastidip. Xylene is considered a controlled substance and can be difficult to get without contacts in a silkscreening studio or plastics company, but naptha can be gotten at camping stores or Ace Hardware as Coleman Camping Fuel. A trick I learned silk screening is that if you dip your blade in the chemical, it cleans up the edge and makes it easier to cut as you go. Do not use with a dremel, though, as both are HIGHLY flammable.

Can't wait to see the final product!
 
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