Those who wear latex masks (sarr, north fur fx, ect)

Hey so I need some advice. This past event I used a north fur fx prostetic dog short muzzle face mask for my coyote kin. It fits a lot like a sarr mask almost (goes from the bridge of the nose to the upper lip then wraps around the sides of the face). Here my issues:
The prostetic builds a lot of moisture inside
Which in turn 2) the mouth area will not stay glued

Im using Ben nye spirit gum and I apply the mask after I wash, dry, and apply alcohol to the application area. I glue my face and the prostetic. Fits great but after about two hours in the mask was very difficult and it was off my lip entirely.

Can someone with experience give me some in sight?
 

youthculture

Fighter
Is it slush cast, cold foam, or hot foam?
 
well, I have all but gave up on mine. It is good for a hour, two, even three...4 or more, forget it. I have globbed on the glue and it just won't stay to my lip. And the moisture is intolerable to me because I am not a mouth breather.
My next try it to bore out the nostrils up to my own nostrils (and probably put in some hose so the nose breathes more).
I use the Hot foam dog nose.
 
I use slush

I'm using the dog nose as well. I'm glad I'm not the only one having this problem. I already opened the nostrils. It helped a little when I put paper towel in the inside. I was thinking of taking a shammy and cutting it in half vertical wise and stitching and removable liner to catch the moisture. But even then I feel like that will only make it last so long. It looks soooo cool. My last resort is to trim a little off the bridge and the black part of the lip and add string. I don't want to do that since I mean for what it is, it's a little bit of a pricey piece to cut string hole into.

But that way I can clean out the moisture. Remove of needed easily. And not worry about glue and ect.
 

cymryc

Squire
I use the LARPax Adhesive (sold from the same place, Northfur) and at then end of the day typically 8 hours later I am peeling it off my face, I set it down carefully and the next morning I place the mask back on (no new adhesive) and at the end of Saturday mostly have to peel it off again. I might need to touch up the adhesive in a few spots, but other than that....

http://www.northfur.ca/shop/index.php?m ... th=105_111
 

Wraith

Newbie
Yeah, fighting in a latex facial appliance like that means that it is generally not going to stick well at all. They're not really designed for it. The best suggestions I can give are to make sure you use a good face wash before putting it on, make with a solid coat of barrier spray to reduce any chance of sweating, and on really humid events just use face paint.
 
Cymryc, which prostetic are you using? If you don't mind me asking. I just want to compare :3
 
Does it attach onto your upper lip? And it works well? Do
You have any insight like moisture, heat, or ect. I'm
Jw cause I play jersey and it's hot but I want to use my mask for evening when it is cool. And of this adhesive is good I can use it all day.
 

Druk

Rogue
I have a Kangena gnoll mask, which I use for my hyena, though it is very different from what you have (mine straps on). I don't know if this would work with yours, but my mask is lined in felt, which absorbs the perspiration (but also makes the mask really warm), you could try making a replaceable felt liner to help with sweating. In the future I am going to try cannibalizing an UnderArmour for a new liner to help with both issues.
Also, for sure use a layer of barrier spray on the face before applying the mask; this morning I forgot a layer of barrier spray before putting on my mask and in 3 hours I was sweating more that I had all day yesterday. Cymryc suggested the Larpex adhesive, I have not used it, but have heard good things from everyone who has.
 

youthculture

Fighter
You don't want to use slush cast prosthetics for longterm heavy activities -- they will sweat off in most cases. Hot foam and cold foam are more expensive, but absolutely the way to go in means of wear-ability and durability. Pick up a cold/hot foam version of the prosthetic you're looking at and grab some larpax and you're basically set.
 
I already have the slush. I got the slush since it was the most recommended by north fur for larpers. im going to keep playing with it. because it is only the lip part that disbanded. the bridge of the nose and the sides of the face were PERFECT from 8p-3am so 7 hours. and i couldve went more.

this is my next experiment:
im going to open the air ways where it will not be noticeable but biggest it can be
im getting that adhesive from northfur
and im going to make liners that will go into the mask to absorb the moisture, because when i used the pieces of paper towels it worked like a boss.

if that doesnt work then im going to craft it custom, add some strings and use it until i get the hot/cold form.
 

Fynwei

Squire
I use a slush cast for my chipmunk. The "best" fix I've found for the nose dripping problem is to leave the bottom unfixed and stuff the inside with tissues.

For my other kyn I went the route of leather masks because it is much more friendly to my face, and there are no condensation problems.
 
I have an original lyonshell foam latex. I use "some" adhesive, but have actually built straps for it that go over the top of my head and around the sides. I then cover that with a hat, bandana or whatever. I find it much more comfortable than having the appliance completely stuck to my face and it doesn't fall off. I was always wearing a hat or whatever, so the straps were no big deal. I did have to reinforce the areas of the mask where the bands attached. I used gorilla tape.

Scott
 
I never thought of using straps. I may do that if the larpax adhesive doesn't work
I'm going to get straps and the gorilla tape to put in my car in case I need to do so. The mask brings everything together. Also I think the straps will be good because then I can take the prostetic on and off no problem
 

Druk

Rogue
My mask has straps, that was a big factor in going with the mask over prosthetics, another player made a hood for me that has ear holes and covers the straps so they stay hidden and I can take off the mask when cooking and be back in game is a matter of seconds when I am done.
 

markusdark

Knight
When using a rat type nose for one character, I cut out a strip of the latex underneath the nose and glued some black fabric in its place. It would collect the moisture inside and evaporate via the cloth.

I only wore the appliance for a few games but it worked well.
 
1) I highly recommend larpax adhesive.
2) I had the same moisture problem with my vulture-kin prosthetic. I solved it by stuffing the inside with tissue to absorb it. If it still gets too moist simply remove the tissue and replace with fresh.

---Mike E.
 

Matthew Mendoza

Newbie
Charlottesville Staff
this has been a great help to me with my kin that I am making and debuting in the next couple months... or next season... which ever I'm finally ready for.
 
I used the canine nose for one event a few years ago and i couldn't get it to stay either, ended up giving that up.

When i made my deer-kyn, i kinda went all out..... https://www.furaffinity.net/full/4366200/ I had Northfur put the face pieces on a spandex/velour hood that slips right over my head and goes under the other hood that has the rack/ears attached. During the summer i only wear the hood with the face pieces attached. works like a charm, but it can still get pretty warm in the summer and muffles your damage calls / incants. I only wear the outer hood in the winter, and no matter how cold it gets I stay nice and warm :D For those playing kyn, something you all might want to consider.
 
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