Fishing Pole Core

Alymere

Newbie
Can anyone give me some construction tips on making a sword using fishing pole for the core? I've seen them done before, and they look fairly light. I wanted to give making one a shot and see how well it works out. I just need to find a way to reduce the amount of whip on my shots, as well as eliminate the rattle from using a core that's so thin. Any ideas from experienced sword smiths out there?
 
Generally, the opinion I've seen presented is that just ordering kitespar is a better idea than using a reclaimed fishing pole. Mostly because it doesn't taper like a fishing pole does, and because the kind of flex and exposure to the elements that a fishing pole is exposed to can make them brittle over time, exactly the opposite of what one wants in a weapon.
 
Since the fishing pole tapers off at the end I uausly cut it off so that its not too thin other wise when you sting and nic some one it will break. As for the rattling, try some thin peaces of foam inserted into the pipe foam with the pole. I also have used weather striping foam that has a stickey side to it and place it along the sides of the pole.
 
I just used extra foam strip insulation on the thinner area of the core to make it tight to the inside of the blade foam. I love my fishing rod sword, very light and the grip area is actually grippy with out doing anything special to it.
 
jpariury said:
I generally do not approve fishing pole cores.

I guess its a good thing he plays on the east coast then.....
 
I find myself agreeing with JP yet again.

I also fail fishing pole cores. With a tapered core structural properties are inconsistant, and specifically with a fishing pole the shaft is designed to flex progressively depending on the "action" of the rod in question.

It occurs to me that most of that last statement is awesome when taken out of context. :)
 
I've had the same set of fishing pole weapons for the past 6 years and have used them at at least 4 different chapters (so people don't start saying they are barely used) and, I am a fighter (again, to understand that they do get used frequently and abused pretty well), and I've never had one shatter, break, bend or anything, I've had to make repairs as frequently as I have with kitespar weapons. I prefer them because they are lighter, though I STRONGLY recommend against trying to make max legnth long weapons out of them, the top of the pole is too thin, you have to be somewhere in the 39-41" range to make it last.

I use weather stripping on the inside and sometimes a bit of foam on the tapered top (mostly for longswords).
 
I would have to agree with Kelly on this one. I play a fighter as well and have used a multitude of cores over the years (currently use both a fishing pole and a kitespar sword and had both for over a year each). Fishing pole cores seem no better or worse than the other options. I have broken a couple fishing pole cores but never had them shatter or splinter it was the handle that broke due to them being cheaper poles and the style I fight with (when you snap your wrist to pull back a blow there are times it can cause the plastic in the handle to snap, not the fiberglass). The same can be said for cheap Kitspar as I have had it snap too.
 
I think this came up on the CT boards once.

There is nothing wrong with fishing pole weapons, if they are made correctly. I have been hit by them thousands of times. Sometimes by the same one thousands of times.

I have also broken every single fishing pole cored weapon that I have had for any length of time (any in some cases bing 5 minutes, which included the walk to the encounter site). That being said, they have never broken in a fashion that made the weapon instantaneously unsafe. No pole was sticking out, no shards of fiberglass went tearing off through the foam and stabbing someone in the eye. You can tell when it happens, and calling a hold to remove the weapon from play is completely valid.

But each chapter has its own reasons for what types of cores or weapon materials that will and will not pass.

I have never had fishing pole or kite spar weapons fail (not for the nature of the core anyway), at any chapter on the east coast.
 
I wouldn't fail a weapon solely on the fact that it has a fishing pole core, but they can be tricky to work with. As Kelly said, they generally taper too much and are far too thin toward the end to make a max length longsword.

Are there any particular types of poles that those who use them have found should be avoided? On that same note, are there any you'd recommend?
 
I find the trick with reducing the tapering issue is to get a longer fishing pole. The longer the pole the more gradual the tapering, and thus the greater the diameter at the point where you cut it off.

Most of the whip in the fishing pole (at least at the applied weights we normally use) occurs at the end of the pole... which we don't use, so they tend to not be terribly whippy.

I wish I could remember the brand that I usually grab at wal-mart for fishing core weapons. It is (I think) a 7 or 8 ft pole, costs about $7, and is two part. Its also got a graphite core with a fiberglass shell, which is awesome for stability. There are two models of it, one with the trigger and one without...

As far as avoiding certain things, I think the most important thing to avoid on an ultralight core is using non-epoxy extruded fiberglass. It looks really pretty when it breaks, but it'll do it fast. And then you'll be hitting people in the back of their far leg... just ask Will K ;-)
 
tieran said:
I wish I could remember the brand that I usually grab at wal-mart for fishing core weapons. It is (I think) a 7 or 8 ft pole, costs about $7, and is two part. Its also got a graphite core with a fiberglass shell, which is awesome for stability. There are two models of it, one with the trigger and one without...

I get the $5-$7 Shakespere's... they work reall well and they are the 2 part ones.
 
casting rods are the ones that uausly comes in two....
 
Actually more and more rods are coming in two or more pieces due to technilogical improvement in materiels. You get far more streanght and resiliance while using much less material than before. I find a decent medium to heavy action rod works the best while the light action rods are much too whippy all the way through. I will go back through what I have and do some checking at the loacal sporting good store to see exactly what weights are ideal as I generally just go by sight and feel.

Jonn
 
aara said:
tieran said:
I wish I could remember the brand that I usually grab at wal-mart for fishing core weapons. It is (I think) a 7 or 8 ft pole, costs about $7, and is two part. Its also got a graphite core with a fiberglass shell, which is awesome for stability. There are two models of it, one with the trigger and one without...

I get the $5-$7 Shakespere's... they work reall well and they are the 2 part ones.

That sounds familiar...

I think you're right
 
Yeah, I'm also w/ JP. I fail fishing rod weapons on general principle. Every fishing pole rep that has been passed that I've ever seen has broken on either its first or second event, so we just don't do them anymore. I wouldn't bring them out to the WC. There are plenty of other inexpensive, lightweight cores that are much, much safer, that I know will pass inspection out here though.
~Matt, WCV
 
So no matter how well constructed, and safe it is, you will fail a fishing pole weapon, just because? Sounds kinda dumb, or maybe just stubbern to me, especially since I have seen many people's fishing pole weapons that havent broken since ive started playing (almost a year) and many non fishing pole weapons that did break. Seems to me the core isnt the problem, just circumstance, or perhaps poor construction.
 
It's the same reason that Kalamazoo used to ban all UL weapons after a streak of them shattering in northern Michigan winters. When something has proven unsafe repeatedly, it is easier to not accept it than to waith for someone to get hurt. Not that I'm saying this is a good idea, just that this is the mentality behind it.
 
Usually, I end up failing fishing pole cores because they do not meet our flex standard for weapons:
4. Whip/flex checks.
The weapon should be tested for flex. There are two methods for this: first, whip the weapon back and forth rapidly in the air and observe the flex of the tip. Second, hold the weapon in both hands as far apart as appropriate for the weapon and apply firm but not breaking pressure to see how far the weapon flexes.

A good guideline to look for is no more than 1" per foot in length from highest likely point of grip.
I wouldn't fail one outright, but my experience has been that fishing pole cores do not stand up over time. If someone asked me ahead of time if they could use one, I'd suggest they should use something else. Most fishing pole cores fail for either tip concerns or flex.

Can they be made safe? Sure. I can make a safe block of wood as a weapon for all it matters. I wouldn't recommend it, though.
 
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