Foam Weapon Tutorial

valid. I have been known to be both sarcastic and silly at the same time so it can get confusing for me. I believe it is from filling my weaopns with noble gasses.
 
nah Wrobel, its from filling your NPC weapons with PC killing/perming awesomeness...though I haven't seen you in a while, so that title could start becoming the stuff of legend...

;)

-Ali
 
I could be completly wrong here as I've never used plastidip but I believe it operates a lot like latex does so any concerns you have about latex should translate over to the PD (other than the latex allergy as it is a synthetic rubber). However, since they offer a clear coat, that is definitely something one up on latex.

I wonder how the stuff would react in a mask mold...
 
Hammerfist said:
I believe it is from filling my weaopns with noble gasses.
Why do I have this weird image of you chasing Duke Frost, who is holding tightly to his waistband, with a pipe in hand while you're insisting "NO, REALLY, IT'S TO LIGHTEN MY WEAPON!!!!"?

CLEARLY the sign of a demented mind, I know...

Back to the OP:

What are plastidip, DAP, and funfoam? Like, if I walk into Home Depot or some random art supply store and ask for it, will they know what I'm talking about and send me to the right stuff, or just think they know what I'm talking about and send me to get something else?
 
jpariury said:
What are plastidip, DAP, and funfoam? Like, if I walk into Home Depot or some random art supply store and ask for it, will they know what I'm talking about and send me to the right stuff, or just think they know what I'm talking about and send me to get something else?

Plastidip is a brand name of 'tool dip.' I've never had a problem getting help finding it (though sometimes I have to ask more then one person, and more people know it as tool dip), and frequently have to ask, since stores stock it in weird places. Check with the tool/hardware department and with the paint department, that's where I usually find it. It's what my rapier-style weapons are coated with. It's what's on the rapier-style one that you got from Paul Boyle was coated in.

Funfoam is a craft store thing. Micheal's, Joanne's, etc, will all have it and will generally know what you're looking for, they're just sheets of thin closed-cell foam, typically in 3 and 5 mm thicknesses. It's kinda like campmat, but thinner.

I've never used dap.
 
Searching for Plasti-dip can be frustrating since, as he mentioned, every store seems to think it belongs somewhere different. I've found it with the paints in one store, with the adhesives in another, and in the tool section in yet another. Not to mention that 90% of the people in a home improvement chain will NOT know what the hell you're talking about.

Dap is contact cement and a little more widely known. At the very least, it's always in the adhesives area, and though Dap is a brand name, if you ask for the glues/contact cement section, you'll find it pretty easily.
 
It works just like it appears on the weapons for masks. Ive made masks with it before, I also use Latex for weapons/masks and such. Plasti dip is that coating you see on tools on the handles.I dont recommend it on parts that will stretch of get similar use
 
You can find Dap at Walmart... it comes in two types. Regular and Gel form. I've used both in making Dagorhir weapons and have gotten the best use out of the regular (see: non-gel) type. I've also been privy to useing Plasti-Dip on light contact LARPing weapons (dagorhir is FULL contact for those unaware) and it is pretty effective, albeit heavy.

I'm traveling to the SoMI game this weekend and I'll bring a few of my Plasti-Dip / Latex homemade weapons to show off. I will also bring regular roundfoam incase they dont pass.
 
I guess I will post some comments since I've been plati-dipping hits for 10 - 12 years now.

1) Do not use the water-based plasti-dip. It flakes and will fall-off.

2) Plati-dip, when cured in a dry climate, will be somewhat shiny. If you leave it out overnight to cure, and you live in an area with a dew point, the surface will dull somewhat. Adding a clear coat of plasti-dip directly over a layer of colored plasti-dip will make it shinier.

3) clear plasti-dip is not as durable as the colored.

4) I use the pain-on with foam brushes primarily. For basket hilts I will use the spray. I have never gotten a good coat of clear from a spray can; it always has bubbles.

5) plasti-dip covered foam SQUEAKS when it rubs against another piece of plasti-dip covered foam. Not this if you want to be sneaky.

6) Plasti-dip will dry over time if it is stored. It can be thinned with paint thinner.

7) Citadel minature paints work very nicely on plasti-dip.

8) When covering non-blade areas, take care when using plasti-dip over duct tape; too thick a coating will absorb into the tape and make it wrinkly. Use more, thinner coats for smooth end results. Plastidip works very well over the foam used in swimming pool kickboards, which does not require a tape coating, can handle intricate carving, and can be engraved with a rotary tool.
 
DAP is not a product -- it is a manufacturer of a wide range of adhesives, caulks, and similar products. Can anyone state, authoritatively, WHICH DAP product is used for gluing together foam weapons?

Plasti-Dip is very easy to find online. It is used by many amateur radio operators to seal the connectors between their radios and antennas (I am a radio amateur, which is how I originally heard about it) and also is used to form a rubberized handle on tools, such as pliers and garden tools. It comes in cans (the Plasti-Dip can be applied with a brush) and in spray cans ( have used this to seal my old oversized bow).

You can go here to find out where Plasti Dip is sold near you (call the distributor): http://www.plastidip.com/ind_where_to_buy.php

It's now available in a kit of clear with tints (yellow, red, blue, black, and white) so you can mix your own colors:

create_color.jpg
 
DAP Weldwood Original Contact Cement.

I should note that Plasti-Dip is no longer available in California due to either its toxicity or environmental impact issues. So you'll haveta ebay it. :)
 
markusdark said:
I wonder how the stuff would react in a mask mold...

Definitely worth a try -- make sure to coat the inside of the mold with something the Plasti Dip won't stick to, and then apply it in layers, brushing on a layer and letting it cure a couple of hours before applying the next layer, and then let the whole thing cure up for 24 to 48 hours before removing it from the mold - and then let the mask sit for another day or two to make sure that the Plasti Dip is fully cured.

Let us know how your experiement goes.
 
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