Camp Foam Ultralights

The double standard, mostly. I am fairly comfortable with that as the standard, so long as it applies to all reps, not just ones topcoated with plastic.
 
Update:

I started adding camp foam blades to the top part of the weapon. I carved out a blade shape to slip over the pipe foam, contact cemented it on, and then latexed the blade to the pipe foam. It seems to dramatically increase their durability with almost no additional weight or hardness. Also, they look cool. I'll try to get a pick up soon.

Gary
 
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Me too. I'll let you know. I'm thinking of extending the blade down lower for increased durability on my next batch.

But honestly, I've already repaired a tip just because it ended up being too long, and these are remarkably easy to fix. Just razor off the top, pop on another with some contact cement, and latex over it. The crease vanishes and you're in business.
 
I used them for a sparring session on Saturday night this past weekend, and used them to my full fighting speed and swung them how hard I normally swing. The swords were fine and held up, and the sparring partner is still alive. They didn't get skewered by the tip. They didn't get a cracked skull from the lack of a waylay tip. They didn't explode.

They are so soft and weigh absolutely nothing that it is almost impossible to hurt someone with them, unless lighting strikes you and the person you're fighting mid combat. That's the only way I see anyone getting hurt with them.
 
Vry_Young_Pup said:
I used them for a sparring session on Saturday night this past weekend, and used them to my full fighting speed and swung them how hard I normally swing. The swords were fine and held up, and the sparring partner is still alive. They didn't get skewered by the tip. They didn't get a cracked skull from the lack of a waylay tip. They didn't explode.

They are so soft and weigh absolutely nothing that it is almost impossible to hurt someone with them, unless lighting strikes you and the person you're fighting mid combat. That's the only way I see anyone getting hurt with them.
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:lol:

Good to know!
 
I'm currently working on making one of these. However, instead of black, the sword is going to be white. White Plasti-dip only comes in a spray can, instead of the normal "dipping" kind. It seems to be working well, however it is thinner and it needs more coatings. The only problem is the white doesn't cover black Plasti-dip very well. The black bled through when I tried to cover it with the white spray and it turned purple. I almost had to scrap the entire thing because the white just would not cover the purple, but I found some white acrylic paint in my house. I used a couple coats of that and it covered the purple really well, and it actually enhanced the color of the white. I need to buy another can of the spray because I ran out, but I will let you all know how it turns out.
 
Cover that acrylic with flexible varnish or (I'm told) it will bleed and stain.

I think Zack is bringing some to the next NH event. We can coat it then.
 
Deadlands said:
Cover that acrylic with flexible varnish or (I'm told) it will bleed and stain.

I think Zack is bringing some to the next NH event. We can coat it then.
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I just covered it with more layers of plasti-dip. There's only two layers of the spray underneath the acrylic paint, the rest is above it.
 
Cool. I'd still get the varnish on there. I have no idea how the white-ness of plasti-dip holds up.
 
Hell if I know. If I had to guess? I'd say it wouldn't be the best idea.
 
Ondreij said:
nope - varnish gets hard .. and cracks.
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When mixed with silicone, or just in general?

I understand that there is some flexible stuff that is particularly good for latex weapons, but I have no tangible experience with it.
 
Unless you have painted on the silicone layer, there is no real reason to put a sealant over it since silicone in itself is a sealant. If you have painted on it, then I would suggest using a couple clear coats of plasti dip.
 
Whoa whoa, they have clear plasti-dip?

I need to look into that.
 
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