Graphite Golf Clubs

One thing I've done, is that if you use any weapon material (kite spar, or pvc) which has a hollow core I've bout big 6" bolts with large heads and wrapped duct tape around them so that they fit snugly into the handle of the weapon. Then secured them and voila you have added nice counterweight to the back end of your weapon. This can make much more a difference in pvc than in kite spar weapons because in kite spar the weapon is alright so light it can actually add a noticeable amount of weight just to put a counterweight in.

That said, I generally fall on the side of balance over overall weight if I have a choice...
 
Best way to balance a weapon is to add weight to the hilt area. This can be tough in some cases. you can add a weight to the hoolow cor if you can secure it so it doesn't shift but some weapons marshalls may look sideways at bolts or bateries stuck in your hilt.

I usually use some scrap closed cell to make a basket hilt. betweent he foam and the tape around the foam it usually balances a sword pretty well and makes it look a little cooler. Of course if you need less you can do quillions instead or a larger/smaller basket dependant on what you need, takes abit of experimentationt o figure out but it looks cool and improves balance pretty well once you get the hang of it.
 
I've added counterbalance weight by wrapping the handle in fence wire (14 guage galvanized steel) before putting the grip on it.
 
tieran said:
I really don't think that fishing pole weapons are all that much more difficult to construct.

Really the only difference that I have between a kitespar and fishing pole weapon is that I run a strip of 3/8" wide x 3/8" thick weatherstriping along the majority of the portion of the fishing pole that will be foamed and then run a strip of tape over that to secure it.
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QFT, this works. I have done this plenty of times. My teams weapons are light.
 
Wrapping wire around the end of a fishing pole weapon is how one of mine is counterbalanced. You just cut about 2-3" of the foam off the bottom of the fishing pole handle (the grip foam that comes on it, don't trim away any of your 5/8" closed cell) and wrap a medium gauge wire (12 to 14 gauge sounds right) around the bottom. Mike picks up scrap wire from construction sites for it, electricians drop all kinds of stuff.

Most of the duck tape weapons that live in my house have the duck tape over the closed cell foam (including over the tip!) and then the piece of open cell is taped onto the tip of the sword so that if it does get damaged, it's a quick 5 minute replacement job instead of a 25 minute find-me-the-%(#)@%$(-scissors/replace all the tape job. It might help the core from punching through, as well, as all of them are either kitespar or fishing poles.
 
Madhawk said:
Thanks for the ideas.

The reason I want to fill up the hollow and not just trim the foam as Kinkaid suggests is that by trimming the foam you cut down the 2" diameter.

5/8" foam with a 3/4" core is 2" diameter. 5/8" foam with a tiny core is 1.5" to 1.75" diameter. This makes the thrusting tip look a little big, and more likely to get damaged (even drawing the weapon from a frog might damage it). Though if you know different, I'd like to hear about it.

Weather stripping sounds like a cool plan, but isn't weatherstripping heavy? Maybe it's lighter than I think...
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I tend to use it as well when needed. it adds almost no weight overall. if your gonna be at the 5/16 game day hit me up I can show you a couple examples.
 
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