Well the plastic I'm looking at using is bullet resistant, so it's durable... but the current book uses very bad wording and doesn't think of the things you can build armor from such as alloys, ceramics, wood, stone, bone, and a variety of other things that work far better.
I was going to look at remaking my samurai armor, however the period materials for most suits are leather or very thin steel- which doesn't get points according to the book.
The book is also flawed on it's description of chain and size, as it doesn't take into account the weave, pattern, type of link, whether it is pinched together, forged whole, welded shut, or pinned. It also doesn't take into account the actual size of the linkage assembly, only the guage of wire.
Hell... I had a teflon coated titanium weave chainmail undershirt that would stop a 45, a hatchet, a pike, or any other monstrosity you could throw at it as long as you put a gambison for padding beneath it. Give me a suit of that stuff and I'd go head to head with a real horde of zombies.
NERO fails very badly at armor "looking real" vs "what it does" on the armor point scale. So I was just looking for some clarification from Seattle staff.
I spent two years in high school designing plate armor for a professional forger... But as Bryan pointed out... they snuck in that evil little wording saying "the marshal may determine what qualifies as..." and I didn't know if there was any precedence for it in chapter or not.
~B